It was, among other superlatives, a delicious success.
Pick any evening in New York City and it’s a sure-fire bet
there are dozens of top-tier happenings all over town.
Thursday June 14th was no exception.
There was a Chase Bank 5K race in Central Park.
My Metro Hort association had rescheduled their tour of the
NYBG Monet Garden to the same night. Really,
what are the chances?
President Obama and First Lady, Michelle were holding court
at a fundraiser hosted by
Vogue's
Anna Wintour and Sarah Jessica Parker – for a dinner at SJP’s West Village home
– not too far from our building. (Shhhh...
As an aside, word here is she and husband Matthew Broderick tried for
years to buy in our building, but management at that time was “afraid” stars
would bring the paparazzi. Too bad, they
are such nice family people. And true New Yorkers, too.)
The Board here has since given up that “discriminatory”
policy and we can quietly boast more than a few artists as building mates,
though Julia Roberts flew the coop/co-op.
Enough sidebar scoops.
Just enough so you see what rigorous opportunities peek out
from more than a few corners in Gotham.
Further, how tough was it to get a taxi uptown? Impossible. After far too many minutes, the doorman hailed a yellow hack and I had
to beg the off-duty cabbie to get us to The Hort in time.
See, the thing is, not unlike SJP’s Carrie Bradshaw on-screen
character, I am a writer.
So not like her, I
write about food, gardens and restaurants, farmers markets, artisanal food
making...
But there was a certain karma-like parallelism in the
calendar that night.
And the fact that I was able to nab this cab – was a
made-for-TV moment.
The hack driver spirited us uptown in no time, making up for
my last minute script rewrites/cuts, and an all-too-short
practice run-through.
And then, just like that, we were getting off the elevator
at
The Horticultural Society of New York to
be greeted at the elevator by none other than George Pisegna, Director of Horticulture
at The Hort. George is an enthusiastic
advocate for The Hort’s mission to sustain the vital connection between people
and plants; moreover, he is a garden hero.
He was happy and enthusiastic to see us and elated about the
attendance for the evening.
Therefore, I was too.
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| Foody's chef Bryan Futerman setting up at The Hort for The Hamptons & Long Island Homegrown Cookbook reading |
It seemed natural that chef Bryan and his inspired grower,
Jon Snow, from the
Hayground School
would have traveled to Gotham together.
There, leafing through the Homegrown Cookbook and smiling as
we entered, was the inimitable garden sprite, Master Gardener, children’s
garden mentor, and artist, Jon Snow.
Later, during the presentation, we would learn in a
personal, almost poetic prose, how he works with the children – and the plants
– to weave a magical relationship with the natural world. The kids get their hands in the dirt, grow
food and learn to cook through the “Young Chefs Program” – designed by another
featured Homegrown Cookbook chef: Joe Realmuto from
Nick And Toni's restaurant, who created
a program that was long a dream of the restaurant’s late owner, Jeff
Salaway. That dream – “to bring together kids, chefs,
and food in the spirit of community” is a true success.
And not unlike an aim of the Homegrown Cookbook.
The program and the children’s garden is delightful.
Soon, Chef Tom Schaudel arrived, his food larder in tow in
what looked like an oversized mobile cooler.
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| Chef Tom Schaudel, CoolFish, sets up for culinary creation at The Hort |
He’s done this before.
He presides over a virtual empire of restaurants, strung
across the Island like jewels on an heirloom necklace.
 |
| Fans of the chefs arrived early to meet |
Arriving from an account meeting downtown, Kareem Massoud,
Paumanok Vineyards' grape farmer and
vintner – and inspired grower to Chef Tom Schaudel as written in the Homegrown
Cookbook, bringing two of his family’s estate wines: a Rose and a Chenin Blanc.
Both were rich, nuanced, and tasty partners to the evening’s recipes, and very
popular with the Hort’s guests, too.
Chef Tom and Bryan made a recipe – or two – from the four recipes
every one of the 27 chefs graciously and lovingly provided for the Homegrown
Cookbook.
With a large Hort audience of food and drink fans eager
for Homegrown food and food stories, the guests were soon asked to take their
seats.
With lots of beautiful images of the natural landscapes of
Long Island and the behind-the-scene photos of the farms, gardens, waterways,
honey and duck growers, oyster and berry farmers, I told the story of the
making of
The Hamptons & Long Island
Homegrown Cookbook (a coffee table, hardcover cookbook, also available at
B&N and now at bookstores) and the larger, food story that evolved in the
world surrounding the writing of the book: from Slow Foods to urban farming to the
resurgence in Farmer’s Markets and edible home gardening, including the White
House’s edible garden. I noted the First Lady is also doing a book tour for her
just published book,
American Grown.
I also read excerpts from the Homegrown book from the
profiles of chefs Tom Schaudel and his inspiring grower partner, Kareem; and
Chef Bryan Futerman and his inspiring garden partner, Jon Snow.
 |
| Jon Snow, Hayground School at The Hort |
Growers Kareem and Jon spoke about their successful
gardening and farming on Long Island.
Noteworthy was the Hayground children’s gardener, Jon, commenting that
his 91-year old Mother commented he was a success at long last, because he was
speaking at The Horticultural Society of New York!
 |
| Kareem Massoud, Paumanok Vineyards |
And speaking of matriarchs, Kareem shared how his mother had
a biblical quote framed in their kitchen admonishing, “Son, go and work in the
vineyard today.” Clearly, his mother –
and family -- recognized a higher authority to a lifetime of honored labor was
calling them. It shows.
Following the talk, the guests were led back to the area for
the chefs’ food and drink demo highlight part of the evening’s program.
With nothing more than a burner –the chefs made their
four-star recipes right at the lovely tables – complete with sweet,
picture-perfect pot of herbs growing in tiny wash bins -- set by The Hort.
The Homegrown chefs had the attention of everyone around
their individual tables, allowing for interaction with the foodie fans, which
were again sipping the crisp, bright flavors of the local Paumanok wines.
Local wine – and beer – naturally pairs better with the food
made from the local terroir and sea.
Just try a Paumanok Chenin Blanc local wine, for example,
with oyster farmer, Karen Rivera’s Peconic Pearls – also featured in the
Homegrown Cookbook.
Truly, heavenly.
The two Homegrown chefs wielded their magical alchemy to tease
out extraordinary flavors to a delighted audience. They had them crying with gastronomic
joy at their creative, distinctive Long Island cuisine.
Chef Tom made his over-the-top Up-Island Lobster Risotto with
corn, Heirloom tomato, and basil. So
simple yet so complex and a no-doubt-about-it crazy delicious, with a visual
impact too. Savoring the Up-Island
Lobster Risotto is a sensory experience.
The Recipe can be found on page 123 of the Homegrown
Cookbook.
Chef Bryan would have made his famous pizza with local
vegetables and dough made with fresh, local honey – I am not kidding – but
without the wood-burning oven, guests would’ve been shortchanged. (Gotta get Kalamazoo to donate an oven to the
Hort, don’t you think?)
Instead, chef Bryan opted to whip up the Cherry Wood-Smoked
Brisket recipe found on page 40. Again,
a few simple, local ingredients, but the end result had guests shaking their
heads in culinary wonderment. The meat was melt-in-your-mouth tender but
Rocky-strong in its integrity as a star ingredient.
To add to the standout taste, Chef Bryan served the brisket
on dark bread infused with sauerkraut (I am not making this up!) with a smoky
thousand islandish dressing and a spicy tomato.
 |
| Foody's Watermelon-Red Pepper Gazpacho |
Speaking of tomatoes, there are none in chef Bryan’s
Watermelon-Red Pepper Gazpacho. For extra credit, Chef Bryan also made the
delightful twist on a summer classic – found on page 41 of the Homegrown Cookbook.
The cool, sweet watermelon flirts with the spicy hot jalapeno
right in front of all the others, er, the other locally grown veggies,
including onions, celery and peppers.
A perfect appetizer served in small cups for a BBQ or dinner
party. Or a main course for an easy-to-make family meal. It’s sweet and smoky. Dial the flavors up or
down…
Book signings accompanied the food tastings. It was a sell out! Food and Hort friends from New York,
California, North Carolina and the Garden State were there and recognized the
Hamptons & Long Island Homegrown lifestyle as featured in the book is one
they admire and can cook up at their own home, wherever that may be.
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| Jennifer Calais Smith (L) & Homegrown author, Leeann Lavin |
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| George Pisegna adds Homegrown to The Hort's Library |
George from The Hort honored this author and the
Homegrown chefs and their inspired growers by purchasing some books to give as
a gift to some key Hort supporters.
Shhh. It’s our secret until they take the wraps off their “Hamptons
& Long Island Homegrown Cookbook!”
And words can’t express how honored I was to sign a book for
The Horticultural Society of New York’s illustrious library. A dream come true…
Thank you.
Cheers to a Homegrown life.
