Phobar in Chinatown is a Vietnamese Noodle Bar Offering Exciting New Menu Items: Deconstructed Phở Pot and 25-Hour Broth

No less a food luminary than Anthony Bourdain is quoted about Vietnam cuisine and his personal noodle soup preferences, "In my way of thinking, in the hierarchy of delicious, slurpy stuff in a bowl, bun bo hue is at the very top." and also, when eating bun bo hue at the Dong Ba market: "People are put on earth for various purposes; I was put on earth to do this. Eat noodles right here."

Well, now you too can slurp away and eat noodles with purpose. Phobar Chinatown opened recently.

Pho means “noodle soup” - and Phobar could very well be the definitive noodle soup eatery in Gotham.

Phobar wrote me (and I especially need this for the formatting of the Vietnamese language punctuation,) “Following the success of their first location in Greenwich Village, chef and owner Mike Khuu and co-owner Li Pien are thrilled to open the second outpost of PhoBar, a contemporary Vietnamese restaurant with a focus on phở in Chinatown (43 Mott Street; 212-267-5400.

Incorporating thoughtful sourcing, quality ingredients and refined culinary techniques, PhoBar highlights the depth and complexity of the country’s traditional dishes.



There is a true noodle bar with a view to the “athletics” of the kitchen and cooks working their magic. There are tables and booths - so lots of seating options for a date, a solo stop, or a friends and family experience.

I loved the dracena-inspired wallpaper and lights!



“Designed by Mike Khuu, PhoBar’s 90-seat space was inspired by the vibrancy of retro Saigon, incorporating vibrant colors and elements reminiscent of the country’s landscape, including bamboo and jungle foliage in the chic and minimalistic space. In a nod to the restaurant’s signature dish (and the acclaimed 2018 film, Crazy Rich Asians), the space also boasts a custom-made neon sign that reads Crazy Rich Broth.”

In another fun nod to the zeitgeist, the wait staff wears T-Shirts extolling the crazy good broth:

“The Chinatown outpost features offerings exclusive to the location, including a Crazy Rich Broth with an unctuous and robust base using Angus prime beef bones sourced from Weichsel Beef/RFM -- one of the oldest butchers in NYC -- available in both 16- and 25-hour options for deeper flavor.

The menu also features additional offerings like the Bún Bò Huế, with slow braised house brisket, sliced beef and Vietnamese ham with spicy beef and pork broth, as well as a Deconstructed Phở Pot, an innovative version of the soup complete with an individual tableside hot pot, designed to keep the broth at an optimal temperature without over cooking the noodles. (check out my stirring prowess in this video!)

The rest of the menu at PhoBar is centered around the eatery’s namesake and signature dish, phở, the rich and comforting rice noodle soup. Reinterpretations of classics include Grilled Lemongrass Chicken Phở, Slow Braised Brisket Phở, and Portobello Mushroom Phở. Signature dishes that take a bit more creative culinary license include Spicy Short Rib Phở,

Snow Crab & Shrimp Riêu, Lobster Phở, and even Surf & Turf Phở. A variety of additional Vietnamese-inspired dishes include Fresh Summer Rolls, Chili Shrimp, and Young Papaya & Mango Salad, as well as versions of the traditional rice and vermicelli dishes Bún or Cơm, with options like Char-Grilled Lemongrass Pork Chops, Shaking Beef, and Fried Catfish, topped with scallions and fried shallots and served with a side of cucumbers, bean sprouts, lettuce, carrots, daikon, and Vietnamese chili sauce.

It’s really a fun and engaging experience to build your pho bowl - and stir up your dish. I think this food fun will resonate especially on a date or with children. Like me! I loved stirring those noodles, just so - as recommended by our waiter. Keep stirring so the noodles cook up just right. Twirling and keeping the noodles soft.



PhoBar’s beverage menu features wine as well as an Asian Beer Bar, highlighting an eclectic mix of beer from countries across the continent including Saigon, Asahi, Flying Horse, Kingfisher, and Hitachino. The menu will also feature non-alcoholic drinks such as an Iced Jasmine Green Tea with Longan Honey and housemade Vietnamese Coffee. PhoBar will introduce a menu of signature cocktails utilizing ingredients such as sugarcane, avocado, lychee, and passionfruit, shortly after opening.

There is Iced Honey Jasmine Green Tea with local honey served in a mason jar. It was a little too fragrant for me but very refreshing.

 

 The coconut drink was very earthy with a delightful coconut taste - and served right in the fruit (or nut or seed!) I loved this drink. My dining partner - who is a certified dietitian and nutritionist, explained how good the coconut water is for us - the Qui Chi - water and passion fruit in the drink is very hydrating.

I also tried this IPA Beer. Very good with the spicy entrees.


PhoBar sautees their sauces for their fresh spring rolls and summer rolls with is delicious bright way to eat these jewels. They also serve up classic Vietnamese fish sauce.

These rolls look like they are wrapped in glissine -- they are so exuberant - and just as delicious.

The sautéed Brussels Sprouts are WOW -- so creamy yet crispy. 

Phobar's spicy rich broth is cooked in three “tiers:” 8 hours, 16, or 25 hours. The “Crazy Rich Broth” that is cooked with love for the 25 hours is available exclusively at the Chinatown PhoBar. Go for it -- the bone broth is richer and sweeter in taste. This is a singular experience not to be missed.

When we were satiated with the abundance of absolutely tasty and good-looking food - artfully presented, we enjoyed a fresh, light, perfect pineapple dessert.


Even the restroom is well-appointed! Look at this cherry blossom rich loo! Even the ceiling is back lit to showcase pretty pink blooms..
Lovely attention to detail.

The restaurant is open from 11:00am - 11:00pm Monday through Sunday.  I highly recommend PhoBar.  You just can't make this rich, nuanced, ingredient-dependent cuisine at home.  One needs to have grown up with the cooking culture and then know how to pivot to make it a modern and sophisticated take on the dishes.  You can eat here everyday and find something new and exciting.

And it’s always an adventure to explore the exotic sights, sounds, and traditions of Chinatown.

      

 

Oceana Restaurant's Bill Telepan Stars in Three Culinary Productions

14-Course Tasting Menu Launches: an Exclusive Oceana Experience with Chef Bill Telepan

Executive Chef Bill Telepan Launches Ocean's Saturday Series Tasting Menu 

Culinary sprites must’ve been whispering “Variety is the spice of life” into the ears of executive chef Bill Telepan lately. In fact, when one learns of his very diverse and robust schedule of commitments, you think surely, there must’ve been a host of culinary doppelgangers. Or two of Chef Bill.

Since landing at the coveted top spot at Oceana - one of Gotham’s enduring, fine-dining classic restaurants some 18 months ago, Chef set about to migrate his pioneering reputation for creating cutting edge farm to table dishes that by and large starred meat and vegetables - to a seafood emporium. And one with a lauded seafood legacy to boot.

But truth be told, Chef Bill had the seafood bona fides. Just ask his loyal customers from his namesake restaurants, Telpan and Telepan Local, who made his Smoked Trout and Lobster Bolognese two of his signature dishes. He’s since added these two stalwarts to Oceana’s menu.

Plus, his experience working at Le Bernardin, the temple of seafood cuisine; along with his early support working with Dock to Dish and its commitment to sustainable seafood, demonstrates he knows his way around food from the water: fish, shellfish, roe, mollusks, river fish, crustaceans, and edible sea plants.

The variety of edible aquatic food is astonishing when you think about it. Seafood’s taxonomy ignited Chef Bill’s newest menu creation: The Telepan Saturday Series at the Oceana Raw Bar.

You’ll indulge my drama in announcing the 14-course tasting menu - after all, Oceana is located a stone’s throw from New York’s Great White Way: Broadway’s theater district.

Besides the show-stopping tableside theater of deboning a porgy or serving a classic Dover Sole, or Tuna Wellington, the Tasting Menu promises award-winning theater as well.

Chef Bill described how they’ve been running a kind of road show for the last few weeks for family and friends to work out the process and test drive the 14 course, three-hour extravaganza.

Kicking off this Saturday, April 28, you’ll be able to enjoy a rather one-on-one dining experience with Chef Bill and his team.

This is worth the price of the ticket alone. Chef Bill is irrepressible -- and he’s a sparkling conversationalist. Just ask him about the Wellness in Schools program or the volunteer work he does. Oh, but I’m getting ahead of myself.

Chef Bill said he missed that one-on-one interaction with his “family of customers” but now he’s having his shrimp, and eating it too, if you will. Meaning his Tasting Menu at Ocean is both grand and intimate.

He describes how guests at the raw bar will watch as Chef and his cooks prepare and serve the fish - by and large omakase and sashimi style little plates.

There’s a kind of seven-inning stretch designed into the Tasting so that guests take a break and then follow him - Pied Piper like - to the open-area kitchen to watch the culinary team prepare and serve a hot course - before heading back to the Raw Bar to complete the tasting.

The open Kitchen at Oceana 

The Tastings are scheduled to run Saturdays throughout 2018. Costs are $175 per person (excluding tax and gratuity); $95 per person optional beverage pairings (excluding tax and gratuity)

For more information and to reserve, contact at: 212-759-5941 or reservations@oceanarestaurant.com

Chef Bill explained how there is indeed a seasonality to fish -- the “fin to fork” mirror to his passion for “farm to table.” Bay scallops, sea urchins, and oysters for example, follow the cool or warm water ocean streams.
And then there’s soft shell crab season from May to September when the crabs molt.

And while there’s a more traditional fish lover who can’t get enough salmon, the menu will provide adventure too, with Sea Urchin, Red Shrimp from Italy, and one of my favorites: fresh anchovies, along with smelt and octopus. Of course, they’ll be serving a variety of oysters sourced by season from around the globe.

The Tasting Menu show is an exciting culinary performance that is sure to have a long run.

Don’t miss it.

And the daily restaurant menu will change out with the seasons. That’s four times a year; climate chaos notwithstanding.




Keeping Your WITS

Because Chef Bill can keep all those plates spinning (even those small tasting ones), despite his move to a big restaurant that does more than 600 covers a day, he continues to work with the Wellness in the Schools (WITS) program that aims to end childhood obesity.

Ever since he first got involved to work with WITS’ founder Nancy Easton in 2005 at a parent/teacher conference at his daughter’s school, Bill’s roll-up-your-sleeves attitude prevailed when he inquired, “How can I help?”

He began doing what he does best: cooking and teaching how to cook. The three-year program offer a twice a week hands-on teaching session to the children so they learn to cook healthy with real ingredients. WITS says, “We work with schools to transform the cafeteria menu, train school staff, and provide nutrition education to students.”
WITS also offers Coaching so that children get out and play at recess with an informed fitness education program.

Chef Bill described further how the program works with edible school gardens and urban gardens and farms to stock the WITS recipes and menus.
WITS has grown from their initial three schools to 122 schools in four states (NY, NJ, FL, CA), according to Chef Bill.

Recently, WITS hosted their annual fundraiser; this year it was at the IACP building and featured lots of star power and great eats. Fun eating for a good cause. And you can still donate...

Sustenance
Getting tired yet? Over what now seems a much-needed cup of coffee, Chef Bill continued. This chef is impressively indefatigable!

I asked him about his recent work with The Institute of Culinary Education (ICE) as their Director of Sustainability.

In fact two of his culinary hat tricks are coming together for an event at ICE on May 14th where Bill and Chef Wylie Dufresne will offer a cooking class to support WITS. These are two of my favorite chefs, to say the least, and their whimsical, fun, personalities are sure to make this cooking class a rare opportunity.

Overall, Chef Bill’s work with ICE and their students focuses on developing curriculum and to implement zero waste practices in the kitchen. They do this by honoring the ingredients and using everything to create new dishes that turn cuttings and pairings into “Scrap Soup,” for example. Or butchered lamb scraps into Lamb Sliders. In addition to emphasizing the importance of using everything edible in new ways to save on costs and boost margins, there is a focus on using culinary creativity to design new recipes.

In addition, as Director of Sustainability, Chef Bill coordinates with the students and the ICE Hydronic Garden there operated by Farm One to grow and use fresh herbs and greens.

Whew! Three major jobs. One man. And if that wasn’t enough, as we concluded the interview and I waited for a fellow Homegrown, foodie friend, Nancy to enjoy Oceana’s oysters and wine, Chef Bill stopped to say goodbye before he headed out to support City Harvest - my volunteer organization’s gala that night!

We need a "second helping" of this outstanding chef, please.

Thank you.

Cheers.

Culinary education at Oceana's Raw Bar! 

Outdoor Dining at Vandal Restaurant offers Street Art & Sophisticated Street Eats

Vandal Restaurant's Street Art, photo courtesy: Shannon Ho

This feature was prepared and written in conjunction with Shannon Ho, Garden Glamour guest reporter and intern.

The outdoor dining at Vandal restaurant is an artsy space for those who love the feel of seeing New York City’s colorful streetscape portraits through the lens of a cafe; a kind of theater with an intimate, colorful view of the pulsating Gotham art scene; altogether a potent mix of fine art and culinary art. Think of dining in a fine art gallery - with a spicy mashup of street art and street food. 

In fact, Renowned street artists Eelus and Shepard Fairey cover three walls of Vandal’s al fresco dining space. It's a full-frontal sensual experience to take in the floor to ceiling red-hot and black aesthetic. 

Photo courtesy: Shannon Ho

The architecture also makes it possible to dine with an extended, outdoor seasonal experience. The decor hints of a garden with greenery on the ceiling, accented with sparkly lights and petite vases with a single, bright flower on each table.
Of note: because of its proximity to the street, noise is very much a part of the menu. If the cacophony of “traffic symphony” isn't your cup of tea - Vandal offers quieter, more intimate dining spaces within its two indoor dining areas, (total seating is 360) and long bar. Even more street artists beckon throughout the restaurant, including Tristan Eaton, Will Barras, Vhils, Apex and Hush.

Photo courtesy: Shannon Ho

To get started, the drink menu offers an array of cocktails. For something with a kick, Sergeant Bell Pepper is a gin cocktail that brings the heat; at the same time delivers a refreshing coolness with each sip.

On the sweeter side, the Double Dutch is a fruity vodka cocktail with a mix of refreshing seasonal berries that is a sexy summer beverage to savor.  

The menu is categorized by sizes. Under the “Small & Medium” portion of the menu, the waiter recommended ordering two or three items for a party of two. This was baffling at first, as they were similar to the entrees in price, but upon seeing and tasting these delectable appetizers, they proved to be well worth it. 

The Thai Papaya Summer Rolls are light and “breezy,” with the crispness of an apple. 

Seafood lovers should consider the Tuna Crudo or the Blackened Shrimp Arepas. The Tuna is tartare, with a kick of curry and fresh, sweet coconut. The Blackened Shrimp offers multiple, nuanced layers and textures: the crunch of the fried corn tortilla, the tenderness of the grilled shrimp, and the purple radish garnish, decked out by the smoothness of the chipotle cream. 

Another recommendation was the Shawarma Salad, made with chicken, homemade falafel croutons, and a thick, pasty white hot sauce. The salad was inspired by halal typical cart street food, but boasting a sophistication in its superb quality and variation of textures. This salad exceeded all expectations, and is highly recommended. 

The “Large” portion of the menu consists of sizable entrees. The Prime Skirt Steak Fried Rice is savory and sweet. It includes Chinese sausage--a sweetened variation of pork, with a sunnyside-up egg on top. The dish has a runnier texture from traditional fried rice due to the egg and array of sauces; marries well with the tender steak and sweet sausage. It is a unique Vandal recipe.  

Another entree worth noting is the Balinese ‘Beach Style’ Branzino which is small and sweetened with a soy sauce glaze.  

And how could you leave without dessert? Vandal has its own pastry chef -- and the confections reflect the dedicated intricacy of the original recipes and their elegant presentations. The Blueberry Macaroon Ice Cream Sandwich is absolutely top notch. Fresh berries are a seasonal garnish, along with the sweet berry sauce trickled on top of the pretty macaroon. These flavors accent the fresh, house-made vanilla ice cream. If asked to choose between this and the Nutella Cannoli, the ice cream sandwich wins out. 

Blueberry Macaron Ice Cream Sandwich, photo courtesy Shannon Ho

Vandal offers a multi-sensual dining experience that goes beyond the food itself.  Go for the food and drink.  Linger for the art… 

Photo courtesy: Shannon Ho